A year ago Marat Guelman, international art curator, president of Dukley European Art Community (DEAC), based in Kotor, invited me to create a Montenegro inspired collection.
Have you done some special preparations for the show in Montenegro?
After I designed the initial sketches the project was approved by Dukley and launched into production. The collection was produced almost entirely in Moscow in my workshop. We bought traditional shoes in Kotor for the show.
How did you design the presentation for the Montenegrin audience?
The collection was designed by combining traditional styles of Montenegro costume with the modern shapes and silhouettes, making them wearable and fashionable for a Montenegrin audience.
You are familiar with Montenegro, you have studied it also from the perspective of ethnography?
For the past year I have been studying traditional Montenegrin costumes from Museums of Сetinje specially from Ethnographic museum of Cetinje, museums of Tivat, Bar, Budva as well as from Metropolitan museum of Art in NY and the Victoria and Albert museum in London. I studied all sort of other visual sources such as: old postcards, books on history of Montenegro etc.
My favorite costumes are the museums of Cetinje which hold the best traditional Montenegrin outfits. Petar Cukovic, director of DEAC, art critic, founder, creator and ex-director of Ethnographic museum of Cetinje and Blažo Markuš showed me around the whole collection and provided me with books and materials for my research. I have always loved traditional costumes and for the last 15 years have always addressed the different cultures from around the world (Russia, Caucasus, Asia, Latin America) using as inspiration their colours, silhouettes, materials and techniques. I am always translating them into contemporary fashion trends. I have never used Balkans culture as inspiration before.
Your creations are like whole short stories. How do you do that?
Each costume is interpreting some of the ideas and techniques of traditional outfits or ornaments, for example, such as embroidery, lace and rope appliqué or open sliced sleeves. We used classical Montenegrin embroidery motifs to transfer them into modern way of adorning clothing.
My collections mix different shapes, colours and moods creating an eclectic urban style. The beauty of the clothes speak for themselves alongside the craft and classic silhouettes and contemporary shapes, create a unique blend of fashionable clothing, which is always in demand... Oriental influences are merged with traditional Montenegrin ornaments, rope appliqué, lace, embroidery, linen and cotton all combine with contemporary proportions to create a sophisticated exotic post-folk look... I have always made modern clothes with an ethnic twist to them. I call this style "Ethnofuturism".
You have studied in London. Can London fashion scene influences be recognized in your creations and in what segments?
The fashion is always international. There are differences in styles and in brand positioning. The most important characteristic of a London designer is being brave and unafraid of doing anything. This mood is reflected in my collection.
Russian fashion scene is so lively, it is a designer and blogger scene but what it separates them is actually cherishing of a Russian folklore?
The Russian fashion scene is changing all the time, few designers have survived for many seasons. Many use Russian themes as theme of inspiration, but only recently this has become very fashionable in the designer and blogger scene.
Could you describe us your process from a journalist to a designer?
I studied philology and languages in Moscow University. I have done a PhD in linguistics. My thesis was about Catalan sociolinguistics. When I was finishing my studies there were lots of changes in Soviet and Russian political system. Becoming interpreter and journalist then was logic as the social environment was very important to me. We had hopes for a positive change for our country. But the period of idealism was soon over. After being a journalist for a long time I decided to change my career path, because I hated the politics I was dealing with at the time. I decided to pursue a career as a designer. I always loved art and design, ethnography and travelling, different cultures of the world always fascinated me. From the childhood the most important book for me was a huge volume of Doctor Sukarno's, Indonesian president, Art collection. Ornaments, colours, shapes and exotic images were always in my mind. I was always drawing, designing and making clothes for myself, therefore the transition was easy and natural for me. Studying at Central St Martins in London helped in the process. There I discovered that I was really a designer. London is the most stimulating city for art and a design in the world.
What does fashion mean for you?
Fashion does not exist. Only the style exists. Clothes I make will last forever and mothers will pass them to their daughters....
What does a job of a designer give you and why is it such a fascinating profession for you?
Being a designer I find is very easy to do and enjoy it very much.
Designing clothes is a passion, and it wouldn't work if it wasn't that way.
What do you like doing when you are not in the process of making creations?
Travelling, designing jewellery, reading books.... But my true passion is studying...
For example, now I'am studiyng Montenegrin language and jewellery design.
