The fruit of an ongoing dialogue between Brussels-based artist Sébastien Rien and jewellery designer Marie Artamonoff, Espèces is an engaging reflection on life, death and timelessness. Referencing the tribalism and intimate nature of jewels, Espèces wishes to reconcile the dead and the living, transcending the usual failure of binary views.
Envisaged as the architecture of living forms, animal bones are a starting point for the Belgian creative duo, willing to return to the essence of life. Bones are, by definition, a fundamental part of our being, as they provide the necessary structure for organs. They are, in fact, the truth within, the ultimate foundation one goes back to in order to reconnect with one's nature. A visible demonstration of what lies within, Espèces reveals the intricacy and delicate aspects of bones, without removing any of their mystery. Turning them into desirable and aesthetically pleasing objects, bones become unique artifacts, which challenge key notions of time and mortality.
Rien's interest for zoology was the perfect excuse to launch the line, which happened in a rather organic way. Using silver exclusively -as well as a diversity of animal parts and bones- the idea for the collection first came in September 2011, when Artamonoff purchased an animal skull for Rien's birthday, making a single cast for herself. Putting negative symbolism aside and using bones for their graphic qualities, Rien and Artamonoff create necklaces, earrings and
other striking art pieces, which can be worn by men or women. Decontextualized and hard to recognize, these objects demand a second take, before being appropriated by the wearer. The relationship between jewelry and individual is an intense one, expressed in the direct contact between silver and skin.
The pieces are made in Brussels. Several items are limited editions, made in 25, 50 or 100 units. Conceived as a permanent line -which will be updated every six months- Espèces is keen on experimenting with new techniques and materials, taking the line into unknown directions. The memory of passing time and former lives defines Espèces, without any nostalgia. With this debut collection, Rien and Artamonoff make a strong and inspiring statement,
avoiding superficial readings of jewellery and celebrating traces of life.
Text : Philippe Pourashemi / Pictures : Stephane Bednarek