Favourite Piece

My Favourite Piece: Rooya Rasheed

BUILDING A COLLECTION IS A VERY PERSONAL PROCESS FOR EACH AND EVERY DESIGNER—AND MANY ITEMS HAVE THEIR OWN STORY AND DEEPER MEANING. IN OUR NEW SERIES, MY FAVOURITE PIECE, WE ASK DESIGNERS ABOUT A PARTICULAR ITEM IN THEIR COLLECTION, AIMING TO SHED LIGHT ON THE CONNECTION BETWEEN DESIGNERS AND THE CLOTHING THEY CRAFT.

This month we spoke with Rooya Rasheed about her yoga mat inspired jacket from her recent collection.

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Why did you choose this piece?

My favourite piece from the collection is my pink sleeveless jacket. I chose this piece because it was the first design I created for my collection, which then inspired the rest of the pieces that followed. I chose it because it doesn’t fit into the norm.

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What makes it stand out amongst the collection?

It stands out from the collection because of the fabrics that were chosen to create it. It is also not the typical jacket silhouette. It is big, bold, and experimental.

Explain the origins of the design. What were your initial inspirations?

This jacket was initially inspired through my drapes. I was able to create sculptural silhouettes, as I used my yoga mat to drape. I was also inspired by the Invertuals 2 photo series created by Raw Colour for the Dutch Invertuals. For the final toile of the jacket, I bonded foam to scuba fabric on both sides, as I was unable to find a fabric that matched the structural silhouette I was trying to create.

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Why did you choose the specific fabrics, patterns, colors?

Initially, I wanted to create my own fabrics but as I had limited time and access to machinery, equipment, and textile manufacturers, I had to figure out an alternative solution. I chose upholstery fabrics that had similar characteristics to the fabric I created for my toile. I bonded two fabrics together—the hard upholstery fabric to a mohair fabric to create one which represented both the heaviness of my concept and the comfort it aimed to achieve. I chose the colour pink as I wanted to present my concept in a positive manner using bright colours. I didn’t want to create a dark and depressing mood as I wanted the wearer to find comfort in my clothes.

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What is the story of this piece and how does it work to tell your collection's overall story?

This piece is meant to capture the concept of my collection, ‘Anxiety and The Masks We Wear’. It is centered around bringing a message to the world of fashion about mental health and the stigma surrounding it. It is meant to be a starting point and pave the way for those who may feel that they are alone, by creating a safe space and a positive environment for them. It is meant to help others understand the symptoms of anxiety. I used heavy fabrics to show the feeling of heaviness mental health can bring. Within the silhouette, I created side seam flaps below the armhole to give the illusion of a sleeve. It has a snap button so it can be closed with a pocket inside. These flaps are meant to highlight the feelings of restraints and worry. If the wearer wants to hide away from the world, they can do so by wrapping themselves into the garment. I also used soft, textural fabrics to provide comfort for the wearer during symptoms of anxiety.

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Rooya Rasheed on NJAL